Sweet, isn't it?
Once upon a time, I was watching ABC Family and a commercial for The Sound of Music came on. Julie Andrews told me that the hills were alive with the sound of music and then I changed the channel because I don't like commercials. Plus, every time I had seen that movie being referenced, it always seemed super corny. Doe, a deer, a female deer? These are a few of my favorite things? I am 16 going on 17? No, not my style. I like musicals, but I tend to stay away from the cheesey ones where everything is sunshine and smiles all of the time. (As a reference, my favorite musical is Phantom of the Opera.)
That's why I had never watched The Sound of Music. So when I went to Salzburg, Austria this weekend, I didn't really know what to expect. All I really knew about Austria is that it's not Australia, they speak German there, and, according to my freshman year German textbooks, they like eating cake. But it is only a five hour train ride away (which, in the scheme of things, isn't really all that far) and a few friends from AJY had gone there on separate occasions and I only heard good reviews, so I decided to go for it and make it my last international trip of the semester.
I did end up going alone, but it was kind of by choice. I knew it was a bit too expensive for train tickets, but I just really wanted to go, and I didn't want to force anyone to do the same. I almost didn't go because of the price and because of the schoolwork, but at the last minute I found some slightly cheaper tickets and bought them on a whim. And honestly, just like Basel, I kind of wanted to go myself. I definitely liked traveling with other people and I do love my AJY friends but there's something slightly magical about being alone...at least, in my opinion. In retrospect, though, I kind of wish I went with someone because a surprising number of things went wrong on this trip.
First of all, I missed my train there. I know it's technically my fault but the tram I usually take to the train station should've gotten me there 10 minutes before the train left. I know that doesn't sound like a lot but I had a reserved seat so I didn't care. It should've been fine. But no, the tram was 5 minutes late picking me up and took extra long because of all of the kids getting out of school...something I didn't factor in. So I got there like one minute before my train was supposed to leave. I figured it was hopeless but I thought maybe the train would've been a couple of minutes late so I sprinted all the way inside and down to the track--only to see the train pulling away just as I got there. Of course, trains are only late when I need them not to be and vice versa.
I thought I was going to have a mental breakdown, but I talked to the guy at the info center and he informed me that I didn't have to pay for another ticket. However, the next train was scheduled to come two hours later. To pass the time I walked around the cold train station, drank weird bubble tea milk, and called my mom...so you know, the usual. When the train finally came I found a seat and took one of my "train naps" which consists of me closing my eyes, leaning back and sort of losing consciousness for about an hour until something jolts me awake and I can't fall back asleep the rest of the time.
Eventually I arrived safely in Salzburg, but since it was two hours later than I anticipated, my plans were kind of ruined. I had hoped to grab dinner at the legendary Weihnachtsmarkt there and shop for a while there before going back to my hostel and making it an early night. Well by the time I tiptoed across the ice to get to my hostel, the Christmas markets were already closed. I was still determined to get something to eat even though the girl at the front desk of the hostel told me everything was likely closed. Of course, I was frustrated, since it was only 8:45 and that's not all too late in the scheme of things. So I put my stuff in my room and went on a trek to find food. This did not go all that well. I managed to find a cafe and I tried to ask the waitress if the pumpkin creme soup had meat in it, but I don't think she understood me. It was a confusing conversation in which I ended up getting a slice of apple pie that wasn't that great.
So I marched on, hoping maybe there would possibly be somewhere else. I did find another place that was full of Austrians and I even had to wait a few minutes to get a seat. And, can you believe it, I had the exact same confusing nonsense conversation about the pumpkin creme soup. I decided to order potato pancakes, so you can imagine my confusion when they brought me pumpkin soup. I had to go back and explain that I did not order the soup, I just had a question about it. It's funny, you know...they always assume that I'm relieved if there's meat in something. They always say "Ja!" with a smile as if to reassure me that I'll survive. Vegetarianism still isn't a thing, I guess. But eventually I ate the potato pancakes which were quite good, and made sure to get out of there ASAP to avoid the wrath of the scorned waitress.
Rather frustrated by the fact that my German seemed to suck, I marched back to the hostel. I made a plan for the next day, befriended my Australian roommate, and had a good night's sleep. When I woke up I was determined to have a better day. My plan was to climb (not ride the train, but walk) up the mountain to get to the Salzburg Fortress, then walk to the famous Augustiner brewery that Rick Steves recommended so highly. Then I'd do a little walking tour of Salzburg, truly explore the Christmas market, and get something to eat there before heading back to the hostel and watching The Sound of Music for the first time. I know I said it wasn't my thing, and it's not, but the hostel plays it every day at 7 and I figured that I had to see it.
All of this started off well and good. I walked through the town to the other side of the river, getting a preview of the Christmas markets along the way. I got a little lost on the way up to the fortress and was definitely out of breath...but it was nothing compared to the breathlessness I felt when I saw the view. The fortress/castle itself was cool enough, but the view of Salzburg below and the Alps in the distance was absolutely amazing. The only view that could compare was the view from the Eiffel tower, but I think this was even better. It was seriously like I was looking at the wrapper for a water bottle. I know that sounds strange, but it's true! As it turns out, mountains are my favorite. They're so massive and impressive. Man, I still can't get over it. As much as I love all of the buildings and cathedrals and art and architecture in Europe, nature's beauty will always be my favorite.
Perhaps this is why I wasn't totally upset by the fact that when I arrived at the Augustiner brewery, it didn't open for another two hours. I got there at 1 and it opened at 3. I took a walk through the mountains to get there and it was quite a long way, at least an hour of walking. And yet, maybe it's because I wasn't that hungry or maybe it's because I had just experienced something beautiful, but I was not totally upset that I just went on a trek to find something that technically wasn't there. Instead, only slightly disgruntled, I marched down the mountain and back to the center of town. I eventually ended up finding a nice little cafe where I got a veggie sandwich and some apple strudel. Of course, after I got my food, I noticed there was a specials menu in which I could've gotten a veggie strudel...d'oh! I know, I'm the only one who would be upset for missing out on such a thing.
But, it was okay, because afterwards I fully explored the Salzburg Christmas market! And boy, the Salzburg markt certainly puts the Heidelberg one to shame...no offense, HD. But it's true! The Salzburg one is called Christkindl Markt and it is basically the same thing, but much more extensive. There are ornaments upon ornaments upon ornaments and good food and Gluhwein all over the place. It's such a simple way to gain weight and lose money at the same time. And, even better, it's so pretty! I walked all around it a ton of times. I went inside the Salzburg cathedral as well, which was in the same platz, and the ceiling was gorgeous! I know I say that about all of the thousands of cathedrals I've been in, but the paintings in this one had really vibrant colors. And on my walk back to the hostel I stopped to take pictures of Mozart's birthplace and residence, both of which were rather underwhelming from the outside. I know I could've gotten a tour, but I was trying to save money, and unfortunately I'm not all that interested in seeing Mozart's old bed and whatnot.
After a quick break in my hostel, I visited the Christmas market again with the sole intention of getting a baked potato with cheese. Naturally, when I got there, they were out of cheese...but it was still a good potato! That and some Gluhwein were all I really needed...did I mention that Salzburg was absolutely FREEZING? It was 20 degrees or under the whole time. I wasn't uncomfortably cold until I'd go inside and realize I couldn't feel my legs...but still!
And then it was time for the inevitable: watching The Sound of Music at the hostel. The hostel was actually really nice. It had a kitchen and a bar, and a dining room which was the perfect place to watch a movie. The staff there was obviously beyond sick of this movie, and I could see why. I laughed at the opening scene just because it was so ridiculous. I laughed multiple times when I probably shouldn't have, actually. But the movie wasn't all that bad. It was charming and happy and enjoyable enough...but it was just ridiculous how they were supposed to be Austrian with their perfect English accents. I'm glad I saw it, though. It made me wish I could see Salzburg in summer and frolic in the mountains, but seeing it in winter was absolutely magical as well.
The next day (Saturday by this point) I had signed up for a salt mine tour. I could've taken the Sound of Music tour where they take you to the locations from the movie, but I figured I might freeze to death, so I went for the less conventional option. The tour company picked us up at our hostel and we had a guide tell us a little about Salzburg's history as he drove us through the mountains. We stopped on the mountain for about 10 minutes and it was a little foggy so the view wasn't great, but it was still so cool. Our next stop was a little Bavarian village (I know, right when I thought I was taking a break from Germany for a weekend) on the mountainside. It was called Berchtesgaden and...as I Google it now, I see these amazing pictures of it in the summer and I'm jealous, but it was snowing while we were there which was still cool! Their baby Weihnachtsmarkt wasn't open yet for the day, so my hostel friend from Australia and I went to a recommended cafe where I had hot chocolate and something new called a Germknodel. It's a German dessert that I've seen the name of in multiple places, but never tried it. And honestly...I don't recommend it. I'm still to this moment not sure what it even was. As I was eating it I had no idea what it was. It didn't taste bad, but it was really weird. Googling now...
Apparently, it "is a fluffy yeast dough dumpling with a mix of poppy seeds and sugar, filled with spicy plum jam and melted butter on top, often eaten with vanilla cream sauce." Now I realize that this may sound intriguing, but don't order it. Really. Your tongue will be super confused. However, it was fun to try to guess what it was. I knew there was jam involved, so that's exciting.
Anyway, we departed from the small town after about 45 minutes to go to the actual mines. Unfortunately we couldn't take pictures inside, but it wasn't the actual salt education that was the exciting thing. First of all, I should mention that the most prominent people in our group were Americans from Tennessee, so you can just bet how weird those accents were for me to hear. I haven't heard a Southern accent in a looong time, especially not in Europe. But they were really nice all the same. I was just glad there weren't a bunch of screaming little kids.
So yeah, first we had to put on these silly, bulky mining suits. Then, we got to ride a little trolley down to the inside of the mine. I felt like I was in Gringotts from Harry Potter, it was awesome. Down in the mine it was surprisingly warm, which I was grateful for. Our guide spoke German, but we had audioguides...but once again, the mining of salt is not the most fascinating topic. It was just really cool to walk around underground. Oh, and did I mention we got to ride down a cool wooden slide? When we went down it I kind of messed up by not holding onto the person in back of me so I was kind of too terrified to enjoy it. I realized when I got to the bottom that that was silly, because it was totally safe. Even though it feels like you'll fly right off the end, you slow down just in time. Then we got to a mirror lake, which was also beautiful, and we got on a little boat that took us across it while they displayed a light show on the walls. Luckily we got to ride another slide, which I was able to enjoy, and learned some more things about salt. At the end we took a little tram car up a bit and then took our adorable trolley back to the entrance. It kind of reminded me of Disney World for some reason, like a fake mine ride they'd have...but it was the real thing! And despite my general lack of interest in salt, it was definitely a unique and cool experience.
After another gorgeous ride back through the mountains, we were back in Salzburg. Even though I'd checked out of the hostel due to my 5:00 train, I left my stuff in a locker, so I went on my laptop in the lobby to look up a good restaurant for lunch. I found two, both with vegetarian friendly options, so I was satisfied. Of course, when I got to the first one, it was closed until the next day. And by the time I finally got to the other one, it was full, and I may have possibly tripped down the stairs. I am uninjured, but still sad, because it looked like a really awesome restaurant. I didn't realize reserving a table for lunch was the norm. So instead I trekked back to the Christkindlmarkt and got myself a potato...with cheese on it this time. See? It wasn't all bad.
In the end I explored the market a little more because it was snowing that day, which made it even prettier. Did I mention Salzburg is beautiful? Yes? Okay, well I'm just making sure you know. Eventually I made it to the train station...early this time. Unfortunately this train trip had a bunch of transfers, so my first train was a regional one, which meant it was overcrowded, uncomfortable, and loud. But I did get a seat, so I can't complain. I was definitely glad to transfer to the cozy ICE where I met up with my friend Brad, who was in Munich. That was a nice, comfortable train ride. But then we had to transfer again in Mannheim where the train was a bit held up because of the weather. By this point it was 11 and I just wanted to go home to go to bed! So honestly, traveling is just not as glamorous as it seems.
I had really bad luck with finding food in Austria and walking in the cold could be a hassle. Despite such annoyances, I just had to remind myself it was worth it. It REALLY was. Definitely in my top 3 places along with Venice and Paris. It was unimaginably beautiful, which I say all of the time, but I really mean it. Just check out my pictures--they'll be up soon.
Meanwhile, I have a bunch of work to do before I leave next Friday. I'm trying not to have a heart attack about all of the things I have to worry about, so I should probably get started on them.
Talk to you soon!
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